The
two large windows in the front of the little post
office gave me a great view of the copper colored
kelp spreading out from the little causeway into the
deeper water. The postmaster remarked on how low the
tide was today, and we all agreed it must be the
extreme tide of the full moon. I had left my house
to do a few errands and now, half an hour later, I
was still only two minutes from my house, but at
least I had the mail. Running into two ladies I
knew, then joining a 'tailgate' conference as I call
it, that one of the women s' husbands was involved
in, exchanging news of the day, and of course the
inevitable remarks regarding the weather were shared
all around. As I gazed over at the wharf through the
large window I wondered out loud if the 'Vegetable
lady' was over there today. The postmaster confirmed
that she was and then advising me to " be careful,
Nanny Lowe!" which always brought a chuckle as I was
adjusting to being a new grandmother, he bid me good
day and off I went to the Vegetable truck. Not too
many there now, I thought, so a good time to pick up
my necessities.
As I walked up to
her she asked "Where's your husband lately?" That
caused me to go into explaining that the boat was
docked in another place and so she didn't see him at
the wharf as much now. She told me about her sore
hands, I told her what cream I used, stashed my
fresh produce in the car and left, an hour and a
half has passed by now. But there's a reason for
this you see, it is because I live in a little
community tucked up in the bottom of Trinity Bay
called Shoal Harbor. It joined Clarenville in 1994
but ask anyone around and if they are from Shoal
Harbor, then that is what they will tell you, not
Clarenville, the adjustment has not been made quite
yet. This little community has a population of
approximately fifteen hundred people, (combined with
the Clarenville population there are fifty three
hundred people in total. Shoal Harbor has two small
grocery stores, a church, post office, municipal
building, two furniture stores, a gas station, an
iron works company, a winery, a funeral home, a
fly-in charter service, a locksmith shop, a garden
nursery business and two recreational vehicle sales
businesses, plus a recreational vehicle and small
engine repair shop. It also has a long history of
being linked to the Newfoundland Railway, and also
people worked at the Hardwoods plant in Clarenville.
It has just the right mix of people to make life
interesting, characters who can bring a laugh on the
worst of days. It is small enough that the local
people know me even if I don't know them, for you
see, it is I who am the 'newcomer'. But anybody who
knows the Lowe family knows me from our frequent
vacations, and they know and appreciate the fact
that I love this little town. Shoal Harbor has a big
heart, and people with concern for others, and they
show it. It is a little place but it is an anchor in
the lives of its' people.
Two years ago my
husband and I returned to Shoal Harbor to retire. He
is a Lowe, a descendant of one of the founding
families of Shoal Harbor. For thirty-five years we
were away, but the pull for Shoal Harbor brought us
home. Shoal Harbor has changed quite a bit since
that day in 1967 when my husband first brought me to
visit his parents. The fishery didn't affect this
community as much as the decline of the railway, and
eventually the loss of it completely. It was then
that the winds of change started to blow over Shoal
Harbor, and it has been evolving and changing ever
since then.
Let me take you
on a tour through our little town. For me the day
starts with sitting and looking out the big windows
of our house onto golden and orange leaves falling
now, pumpkins sitting on a rock, and the birds
pushing and shoving to get a good seat on the
feeders that I keep filled for them. All seems well
so we can start our tour. We will drive to the gas
station at the top of 'Milton Hill' as it is called,
because our town ends there and Milton begins. A
building supply and furniture store, with an
adjoining convenience store and hair dressers shop
complete the picture here. Always a beehive of
activity usually, and generally one meets someone
they know and a yarn begins. Then we turn back, down
past well kept lawns, lovely hanging baskets, and
occasional yard sale signs. The sea is always
visible on the left driving down through and one can
see Random Island and a small boat can be seen
making its' way to Smith Sound, going under the
'bar' or causeway, that connects Random Island to
the mainland.
Along the route
there are small businesses, then a large business
with a parking lot full of trailers, snowmobiles,
seadoos and all sorts of outdoor equipment. The lane
to our house is just beyond that parking lot.
Further along there are more carefully for
properties, a little lighthouse sits on one lawn,
and a windmill to swirl in the breeze for effect. A
little convenience store comes into view, and just
down the road is a furniture store that at one time
was a school, then down from the store is a fenced
in a playground with usually several brightly clad
children enjoying their playground by the sea, with
their caretakers watching over them. Further along
are a Municipal Building, and Post Office and next
to the Post Office is a beautifully kept United
Church with the Graveyard on the hill beyond it. A
graveyard where one can see the headstones with the
familiar names of Mills, Ploughman, Clench, Lowe,
Tilley, Tuck, Wiseman, Mills, and other ancestors
who have walked here before us. Houses are springing
up everywhere. Further in the road is the elementary
school with its' recess time music of the children's
voices. The road will take you up and around the
cove, past Shoal Harbor River, always gorgeous, and
up around the bend some beautiful big trees, lovely
homes, and if you are still you can hear the call of
the blue jay and the rushing of the river. This road
will take you down to the wharf and the end of Shoal
Harbor as it gives way to Clarenville, to the wharf
where the lovely lady sells her produce. Otherwise
you can drive straight over the causeway and come to
the same place, the wharf where a small boat named
'Misty Sue' sits on her collar, with other little
Newfoundland boats keeping her company.
In
summer and fall, people are walking, chatting, their
dogs on a leash and straining to chase the seagulls.
One seagull has laid claim to a rock and at a low
tide he looks like a mighty ruler, sitting on a
granite throne surrounded by golden seaweed. The
sandpipers dash to and fro on the shore and an
occasional kingfisher dives for his prey. In the
winter we have geese that stay and slip and slide
around on the ice, but they stay. They leave in
summer and come back in late fall. It is considered
a strange phenomenon these geese, but that is what
they do, and in winter one can find people feeding
them from the shoreline. Shoal Harbor is in fact a
Canada Goose Sanctuary, and proud of it.
Lines of freshly
laundered clothes hang out to dry, a clothesline of
salt fish hanging on a line in the sun looks
wonderful, and the tricycles of the preschoolers can
be seen here and there, and usually the children
wear their helmets now. I often see things that are
reminders of days gone by but at the same time it is
a community where most of us have e-mail addresses,
and send messages back and forth in the way of the
twenty-first century. But it is still a place where
a man can find, always, a few people to help haul
his boat up on the point, where the minister and
postmaster know your names and the names of your
children, where people call my husband by his given
name while I use a nickname, and it causes a chuckle
many a time.
We have had our
tour, come for coffee? Small community isn't it? But
who left the bag of tomatoes on the doorstep, who
came and plowed the snow when it was necessary, who
called when they wanted a nice photo taken of their
skidoo, the people who live here and share with us,
that's who, a nice touch to life. We sit over coffee
in my sun room and look down past the colorful trees
and see an enormous barge of wood coming into
Clarenville, and the binoculars come out, yes, it
looks like a moving island! How do they do it? And,
no, you will not hear a lawn mower start on Sunday
morning until church is through, until people are
out walking the trail of the old railway bed, the
dogs are barking as their owners throw bright orange
balls for them, and the boys have their bikes out.
Shoal Harbor has changed, and is changing
constantly. But the change is not all bad, because
to move ahead requires change and the people know
that.
My husband
arrives from his foray into the woods, cutting
firewood, takes a look over at the barge, asks if
the Flicker woodpecker was here today, he says he
saw his friend at the garage, and was told that one
of the community elders was very ill. We all know
the lovely man and are sad about his poor health.
Come back and visit us again. The tea and craft
sales will start soon and the church ladies will be
all decked out and looking wonderful, making tea,
serving cookies, and admiring the crafts and
preserves. The geese will be in the harbor, and
people will welcome you back as will the honking
geese.
Yes, you have
visited Shoal Harbor, as I did for many, many years,
but now I am not visiting, I am home. This little
shoal water harbor, tucked up in Trinity Bay has
brought me home to stay. You'll be welcome if you
come back, I'll be here, and so will Shoal Harbor
and if you have time I will show you the Trout Hole,
a deep hole further up the river where the children
always like to swim, and maybe take you to some
other secret little beautiful places as well.
And if you have
enough time we can share some stories of the days
gone by, the antics of the now fifty-plus age
groups, and the stories they remember from their
younger days here. Folklore is everywhere, and is
just as interesting as Shoal Harbor itself. A little
community that has stood the test of time, and has a
beauty that continues to overwhelm, and a character
that you can feel in the air. Shoal Harbor is moving
into the twenty-first century with its' head up,
looking forward to the future with a genuine belief
that although things change, some things can remain
the same. For me it is 'Home', and to be here is a
dream come true.
ŠAll Rights Reserved. Story submitted by Bonnie Jarvis-Lowe